I spotted this collar style on a (children's!) t-shirt a little while ago, and fell in love with it. Unfortunately the colour of the shirt put me off buying it for Little One, but I took a quick phone snap with the thought of copying the style at home. I loved the style so much I decided to try it on a top for myself first. I had this viscose jersey remnant in the stash, which I'd got for free as it was the beginning of the roll and had three big strips of brown parcel tape on it. Nothing that didn't come out with a good soapy soak and hot wash! For the collars, I used some scraps of plain black jersey with a very subtle satin sheen.
To draft your collar pieces, you will first need a blouse or top pattern to work with. This style of collar can be added to almost any style of top, with a variety of necklines, though a round shape works best.
Trace a copy of the front and back pieces of your pattern, marking centre front and back edges. Draw in and then trim away the seam allowances at the neckline and shoulder seam- check your pattern instructions to see how much allowance is included.
Lay your front and back pattern pieces on a large sheet of paper, matching up the shoulder seams. Trace the neckline along the edge from centre front to centre back. Draw along the centre front and centre back lines for three or 4 inches. Mark where the shoulder seam lies along the neck edge, as well as which end is front and back.
Decide how wide you want your collar to be. Mine was 2.5". Mark this distance from the neckline at intervals, and draw a smooth curved line to join the points. This will give us our width guide when drafting.
First, we will draft the small lower collar piece. Starting at the centre front, draw a rounded corner of the collar, down to the width line. Curve the line back up towards the neckline, so that a teardrop shape is formed. The length of this will depend on the size and shape of your neckline, but it should be approximately half the length between the centre front and the shoulder seam.
Next, we draft the main upper collar. Begin your line approximately at the mid point of the lower collar, and draw a similar curved corner to the first one. Move to the centre back line, and draw in your collar corner here too.
Study the shape of the two overlapping collars at the front, and decide if you are happy with the shape of them. Adjust any curves until you're happy with the look.
Trace off the collar pieces individually, and add your preferred seam allowance. I added 5/8" at the neckline edge, and 3/8" around the outer edges. Mark a notch in the upper collar at the shoulder seam, and label your pieces appropriately. As you can see, I traced off the small under collar, then simply added seam allowances onto the drafting of the large collar and used that rather than tracing off a copy. As long as you can ignore the other drafting lines, this is just fine.
That's your finished pattern! Tomorrow I'll go through the cutting out and assembly for the collar.
Click here for Part 2: Making