Saturday, 12 January 2013

Double Peter Pan Collar Tutorial: Part 2, Making

So, we've drafted our double collar patterns from the previous post here, and we're ready to sew. Normally, I will attach the collar to a garment after sewing the shoulder seams up, but before closing the side seams or adding sleeves etc. This gives a fairly flat piece to work with, with minimal bulk or handling to get the thing on neatly.

TIP: Stay-stitch your necklines! This should be done as soon as you cut your fabric to minimise the curve stretching out; something I unfortunately forgot to do on this tee, resulting in an inch wide gap between the collars at the back.

Cutting Out

Collar pieces cut and pinned ready to sew

You will need to cut four of each collar piece, so eight pieces in total. If your fabric has a right and wrong side, fold the fabric in half, then lay the pattern pieces on and cut them out twice. You should have two top and two bottom pieces for both collars. I didn't use interfacing, but you may decide to depending on your fabric and if you want a crisper finish. Cut two pieces of interfacing of each pattern piece, one per collar, and apply following the manufacturer's instructions.

Making up

1.


Right sides together, sew the outer edges of the collars together on all four collar parts. Trim the seams if necessary, clip the curves and turn right side out. Press.

2.


Lay the lower collars on the front of the shirt, matching them to either side of the centre front. Stitch at the neck edge.


Lay the upper collars on top, matching the notches to the shoulder seam, and matching the collar ends at centre back. Stitch at the neck edge.

3.

You can now finish the raw edges with your preferred method. You may add a facing or lining, bind the edges, or simply overlock and understitch to the inside. I decided to bind my edges for a neat finish, as follows.



Cut a cross-grain strip of jersey 1.5" wide and long enough to go around the neck edge. Stitch to neck edge.


Press upwards towards the neck, then turn under once, enclosing the raw edges. Topstitch in place.


Next, turn the bound edge down inside the neckline, and topstitch in place. This will hold the binding to the inside of the shirt.


Turn the collar upwardsand press along the line of the facing or binding.


Next, roll the collars to the outside and press your desired fold-over line in the collar. Do this in two stages, pressing the undercollar downwards first, followed by the upper collar. (Try not to press a crease into your collar by accident like I did in this last photo, heh.)

Finish the rest of your blouse as per the pattern instructions, and enjoy!


Previous posts:

- Part 1, Drafting the pattern


1 comment:

  1. I've been telling myself I will make something with a peter pan collar... I might just try this one out first - it's such a cute variation!

    Thank you for the tutorial!

    ReplyDelete