Friday, 14 October 2011

Plaid jumper skirt

Progress has been made on the Autumn Sewing List! This is actually the third complete garment from my first list, but is the first I've got round to photographing. (I am a bad blogger, I know...)

Today's offering is a black and white plaid jumper skirt.

 Why do I never smile in time?!

McCall's 3590, dated 1956 | Advance 8064

I took inspiration from various 1950s patterns, but drafted the pattern myself. I began with my half-circle skirt pattern, and folded it to give me an eighth of a circle; four panels in all, with seams at the sides and centre front and back. I then added an extra 1.5" to the width of each panel at the waist and marked in the darts at this width. An extra 3" above the waist gave me my extension to make it high-waisted, and I drew in the shaped top and drew in the upper half of the dart. The straps are worn crossed at the back.

A moment of new-shoe love
I added textured red buttons to accent the subtle red stripe in the weave, and lined it in the same shade.

Lining hand-stitched to inner facing

I hemmed the skirt and lining separately, as always. I'm don't like the way the hem can pull if the lining is attached to the outer at the hem. Plus I always have the worry of "what if one layer shrinks and the other doesn't?". The plaid was pressed and hand-hemmed with a near-invisible catch stitch, and I gave the lining a narrow machine hem.

 It closes at the back with a lapped zipper. I have to admit, it's been years since I really used this method, but having done it on my last three zips I'm now in love with it as a method!

Colours used from my Autumn palette